This page is here as a reference only.
In order to be able to use the shop, the Quartermaster or a member of his committee must give you a safety training session before anyone is able to use the tools in the workshop.
Reading this page does not replace receiving training!
- == Basic Shop Safety==
- 1.) After this training one still can’t use the CNC mill, lathe, vacuum former, mill, and welder.
- 2.) This general shop safety does not have specific training on every tool, but on a few tools.
- 3.) Always wear strong shoes that are closed toed and will grip the floor, take off any jewelry or long things, tie up long hair, always wear eye protection, ear protection is recommended but not required, never wear gloves when using a machine as it can get caught up in a machine, and be mindful of other people's projects (give them space). Always, leave a machine in the same or better condition than you began using.
- 4.) When using a machine with a spinning blade pressure may vary, however if there is unusual pressure don't completely let go of what you are doing (as it may cause kick back) , but pause, analyze (binding with the material), and try to hit the stop button. Few things may have gone wrong: blades dull, machine is configured incorrectly or you are doing something wrong.
- 5.) If you don't feel comfortable changing a blade let someone who knows what they are doing know (i.e. Paul, president, one of the directors). Make sure to leave the machine with a marked piece of tape of the issue related to the machine. This will let people know when people come up to the machine
- 6.) Only touch wood to blade once the blade is fully spinning, as it may throw the wood otherwise.
- 7.) Always clean up when you are done, vacuum, and or broom
- 8.) Drill press:
1.)Take the safety switch out of the press when you are attempting to change something related to the machine to guarantee safety (yellow tab) 2.) Take out chuck turner before turning on the machine as it will fling it 3.) Put a spoil board below the piece you are cutting so you don’t cut into the table
4.) always change speed depending what you are working (wood faster, metal slower (general idea) also speed will depend on bit size, slower if it is a larger bit due to the torques involved)
5.) To change the speed open up the hood and look at the guide to find where the belt should be at. 6.) To walk the belt up or down turn the belt while applying upward or downward pressure. Make sure to be careful while using your two fingers as you don't want them to get caught inbetween the pulley and you hand. (walk it slowly) 7.) If there is dust being created while you are cutting you are going to fast, burning= too fast, medium sized chips are a good sign 8.) Make sure anything you are working on or drilling is secured by clamps or a vice (jigs if you are more advanced)
- 9.)Band saw:
1.) make sure you drop the guard onto the material height and then add an eighth inch. Use the knob in the back to adjust tightness 2.) On curves or sharp turns, make sure to make relief cuts (straight lines attached to the desired cuts) this will keep the blade from being turned to much. 3.) Especially with the band saw make sure not to push to hard as the blade may not have the proper tension or sharpness (always assess while in use). Adjust tension, if it doesn't fix the issue, put a piece of tape on the band saw or change the blade.
- 10.) Jointer:
1.) Rule of thumb: make many cuts, but shallow cuts 2.) Knob on the side of the jointer for adjusting depth (recommendation: keep the infeed table 1/32 in shorter than the out-feed table.\ 3.) Jointer shaves off high spots 4.) Make sure you used push blocks when putting the material through. 5.) If something gets stuck and you can't push through, don't just stop (because of kickback)
- 11.)Radial arm saw:
1.) Make sure your body is to one side of the blade 2.) When you are cutting a piece the blade will force itself towards you so make sure to keep the right balance of push and pull as a mistake may cut your hand off ;) 3.) Recommendation: another way to cut would be to pull the blade out (not on), place the material in and then push forward while you are cutting as it won't jut towards you as much. 4.) Blade height adjustment is below the table, and blade angle adjustment is at the end of the shaft. 5.) Always make sure your blade angle is locked 6.) Blade fully spinning before you touch the wood
- 12.) Router table:
1.) Safety here is a little different. Also the on/off setup is a little different. 2.) There are two nuts below the table adjusting the grip on a bit. (Always make sure to sink the bit in as much as you can, as if it is not secure, the bit may fly outwards with immense momentum.) 3.) Four knobs for adjusting the mouth opening. You want the mouth secure so that the material is supported on either edge so the material doesn't slip into the mouth. 4.) Change Collette depending on bit 5.) Feed direction is right to left unless you are cutting inside something 6.) Use the push blocks to keep your hands up and away. 7.) Set up the fingerboards so that you can ease the material through the router table, but it is difficult to move the other way (prevent kickback)
- 13.) Table saw:
1.) Use the out-feed table when you are cutting 2.) Rule of thumb: Don’t reach for your material after you cut, let it fall off or slide onto the out-feed table. 3.) 0 clearance insert. When you change the insert or blade UNPLUG THE MACHINE 4.) When setting up the table saw for ripping make sure to adjust the blade so that it is barely above your material height. 5.) When you use the miter gauge don't use the fence at the same time as the piece will get stuck in between the blade and the fence and throw it. 6.) The blade up and down is in the front, the angle of the blade adjustment knob is on the side 7.) Always stand off to the side slightly to apply all of the correct pressures and to stay away from kickback
8.) Make sure to lock down the fence